On January 7, a very simple dish appears on Japanese tables: rice porridge mixed with seven young greens. It is called nanakusa-gayu (七草粥), or seven-herb rice porridge. Compared with osechi, mochi, sake, sweets, and the other foods and drinks associated with the New Year holidays, nanakusa-gayu can look surprisingly plain. That contrast is part of its role. Traditionally, people eat nanakusa-gayu with wishes for good health in the year ahead. The custom is associated with Jinjitsu no Sekku, a traditional observance on January 7, and developed from older traditions involving the gathering and eating of young greens. Today, the dish ...
